House and Crate Training Your Beagle Puppy
We believe that crate training goes hand-in-hand with house training. It provides a safe and controlled area for your puppy while you are sleeping, need a break and when you are away from home.
If crate training is not something you believe in, please still read through this article. There are many tips that we know will be very helpful, even to the experienced dog owner.
Crate Training Your Puppy - It’s a Den not a Jail
Martha Guerra - From “Good Dog” (Mildly Altered)
“I wouldn't put my kid in there." This is something a client actually said when I tried to explain the benefits of crate training her young dog. I replied "That's great, I wouldn't want you to put your kid in there!"
This demonstrates the anthropomorphic views many people have regarding a crate. It would not be appropriate to put a child in a crate. That's obvious! A human child does not harbor the same instincts and nature as a dog. That too is obvious. A crate is not a "doggy prison" as many consider it to be. A crate is a "den", a sheltered and secure place your dog or puppy can call his/her own. If you introduce your dog to a crate in a positive way you will be giving yourself and your dog an invaluable tool.
WHY A CRATE? -
In the wild, Dogs are naturally denning animals. They seek out places that are sheltered and secure to rest or raise their pups. The den contributes to the pack's survival and offers protection. This instinct has been passed down to our domesticated dogs. Den-like settings have a calming effect and you may even see this behavior with your own dog.
Ever see your dog curl up in a corner, under a table or desk, under your legs as they are propped up on a table, etc.? If you have, you've witnessed the denning instinct in
action. When you bring a new puppy or dog home and just let it roam around the yard or inside the house, while you're at work or running errands, you are asking the pup to "fend for itself", to survive in a new, strange environment. The problem is that your puppy does not have the physical or psychological skills needed to survive on its own.
So, your puppy gets very nervous and anxious. He or she is going to look for ways to relieve that anxiety. The typical things dogs do to calm themselves down are; bark, escape, destructively chew, dig, pace back and forth, etc. By crate training your puppy or dog, you can relieve his/her stress in an appropriate manner. This "den" will calm and settle your petâs anxiety and provide you with an invaluable management and training tool.
Ask yourself this question: "would I rather return home to find a mess and scold my dog, or would I rather return home and let my dog out of his crate, greet and play with him? The benefits to crate training are many, but the most important one is that it can prevent unwanted behaviors from developing like destructive chewing for example. Your cute, cuddly companion can't shred your clothes and furniture to bits when it is in a crate.
By establishing a routine for your dog many problems can be prevented and the crate is a very effective management tool. Look at the alternatives to not crate training your dog: finding piles of poop and puddles of pee, furniture torn up, clothes in shreds, garbage all over the place, or worse, your dog or puppy seriously hurt or dead because it go into some chemicals, poison or chewed through an electrical cord. Crate training
also facilitates potty-training (dogs typically will not soil their space. However, there are exceptions to this rule). It's a temporary playpen for when you are unable to monitor the dog or puppy's activity. Crates are a great bed for your dog and prevent the dog from roaming about the house at night. Crates are the safest way for a dog to ride in the car.
All About Crate Training
Scheduling -
It is important to create a schedule for your puppy that is reliable, especially in the early stages of house and crate training. If they know what to expect, and when to expect it, you will find that training will be a fairly easy task.
What type of crate is best? -
There are pro’s and con’s to both wire crates and plastic crates.
Plastic crates provide a feeling of more security for the puppy, they are much easier to clean and outside objects can’t be pulled into the crate to be chewed or soiled.
Wire crates are easier to bring with you for travel. You can also attach an exercise pen to provide a large play area (more on that later). Scrubbing poo off the wire bars is a bit tedious however, especially in the middle of the night. A wire crate must be placed far enough away from anything that could be pulled in and any blankets covering the crate must be “tented” away from the sides. These do normally come with a divider however, that you insert into the crate to make it “smaller”.
What size crate do I need? -
Young dogs often find larger spaces to be very uncomfortable. Also, a crate that is too large can ruin your toilet-training efforts. Unless you fill up the extra area, the puppy can eliminate at one end and then move to the other and lie down.
You can purchase an Intermediate size plastic crate for training, and when your puppy grows, transition to an adult sized Extra Large crate, which is probably best for a Labrador puppy. Most Labradors will feel more comfortable in an Extra Large crate as an adult. That is a very large amount of area, but you can use a wire crate and insert the divider if needed.
A cardboard box is also a great way to take up the extra space in a crate to restrict the amount of room available. The downside is that some puppies will chew up the box, which can create quite a mess, but they are easily replaceable. Most puppies will not ingest the cardboard. If they do it is normally easily passed. As your puppy grows you can reduce the size of the box needed or move the divider to create more room.
What if you must be away longer than 8 hours? -
I would highly recommend a wire crate, with an exercise pen attached, for young puppies being left alone longer than eight hours! If you are using a larger crate you can also remove any dividers. It is difficult enough to expect a young puppy to be restricted to a crate for eight hours. Ten hours is TOO MUCH! Use this set-up instead of just crate training if you prefer!
Where do I place the crate in my home? -
I recommend placing the crate in a room that is far enough away from the family so that any barking or crying is a minimal distraction. This way you will not have the temptation to say anything to the puppy. Remember that dogs don’t understand your words. They only understand that any attention will be taken as positive reinforcement for his actions (barking).
What do I put in the crate for the puppy? -
Puppies are normally going to have accidents and expensive bedding may be soiled or chewed. I use older towels for their bedding and always have a few on “stand-by”. I use ones that can be easily replaced if they need to be thrown away. Pee pads can be used, but some puppies may be more tempted to rip them up than fabric.
Sometimes I also put a chew toy in the crate that is easily washable. This will give them something to do at night if they simply can’t get back to sleep. If you decide to purchase some more exciting toys or support objects, just remember that they need to be easily washed and anything moving or making sound may cause a distraction and interrupt their sleep.
What do I say when I put the puppy in the crate? -
I would recommend giving a placement command such as "crate," "house," or "kennel." Pick something and use it every time. You can also provide a treat when they enter to crate after you close the door.
When your puppy is small you will have to place it in the crate. Follow that up with your placement command and once you shut the door give a small treat. As the puppy is getting older see if it will follow your hand holding the treat into the crate, hold it until the puppy is fully inside, give the command, treat and then shut the door. It won’t take very long until you will be able to say the command and your puppy will be running to the crate for its treat!
When do I put the puppy in the crate? -
At night when you are sleeping, when you are away from home and for naps or break times you require.
When do I take the puppy out of the crate to potty? -
In all instances DO NOT take the puppy out of the crate JUST because it is crying!
At night I would place the puppy in the crate at the same bedtime as yours. Plan to spend 30 minutes with the puppy right before bedtime. It is best to take the puppy outside for 10 minutes to potty and back inside for another 10 minutes for vigorous play. For the last 10 minutes, take the puppy back outside for the final potty visit. Then place the puppy in the crate.
During the night I would recommend setting an alarm at the same time every night, half way through the family's sleep cycle. Get the puppy up quietly with the lights low and make as little commotion as possible to take it outside for a potty visit.
Puppies will play and get distracted during outside potty visits and you must wait until they “remember” they have to potty. This normally takes around 10 minutes. It feels like eternity in the middle of the night, but it is important that the puppy has enough time to go potty.
Always plan ahead and have cleaning items and new bedding close by so that the crate can be cleaned, if needed. Once you have taken the puppy outside and you know the crate is clean, put it back in the crate and quietly go back to bed.
Always remember to use a command for potty time such as “Go potty”, “Do your business” or something similar. Pretty soon your puppy will be doing its duty on command!
Do I give food and water in the crate? -
I would not expect a puppy under the age of 10 weeks to go more than 8 hours without water. If you must be away from home longer than that period, I would recommend purchasing a stainless steel 1 quart pail for food. These should be available at supply stores and online retailers.
Fill the bucket half full with water and attach it to the crate door with a double sided spring clip. These are available at most hardware departments or stores. This clip will attach to the handle of the bucket to the door of the crate. It is best to use the SAME SIDE of the clip for both the handle and attaching to the door. It will swing less and cause less spillage. Make sure that you can shut the door without tipping the bucket over before filling it. Be sure to place the bucket low enough that your puppy can easily drink.
I would also not want a young puppy, under the age of 10 weeks, to go more than 10 hours without food. I would supply a small bowl of food for any puppy being confined for longer periods of time. They may tip it over, so a small non-tip bowl may be best. Be ready to clean up a mess though when you get home.
In instances where you feel water and food are needed, you may want to consider using a wire crate with an attached exercise pen. Labrador puppies will need at least a large size crate and an exercise pen that is 42” tall. Purchase five additional spring clips to secure the pen to each side of the crate and to secure the door of the crate open. You could even purchase an additional spring clip and stainless steel bucket for food!
Exercise Pen -
Instead of placing your puppy in a crate while you are away, an exercise pen and crate combination may be better. These are pens with eight panels of welded wire in two foot sections. For Labrador puppies under 4 months of age, the pen should be at least 42” tall. After unfolding the pen, secure each end of it on either side of the crate entrance using two spring clips. Using a fifth spring clip, secure the crate door open.
Remember that puppies grow fast and there may come a time when your puppy will be able to move the pen and the crate around the floor with a bit of effort. If you have a way to secure the attached crate and exercise it in place that would be best. They will potty in these pens due to the ample space and so a floor that is flat and pads or other absorbent material must be used.
Please note that some puppies may still tear up the flooring unless it is concrete or ceramic tile. Placing heavy duty plastic may work, for a short period of time. I have also used rolls of vinyl flooring.
By 14 weeks most dogs will be able to "control themselves" for the majority of the hours during the night.
The exercise pen can also be set up outside and in a shady area for potty training. They also sell shade covers for them! Exercise pens are especially helpful at night, when you are still sleepy and trying to keep your eye on a playful puppy.
Always remember to stay close to your puppy when using the pen while outside. Puppies can learn to dig (if on the ground), begin to climb, tip the pen over if it isn’t properly secured or even be stolen (I have heard of this happening). During the day there may be prey birds out hunting. A little puppy in an open topped pen may be a target! Even if it isn’t small enough to carry away it can cause some serious damage. The shade cover helps with these issues also.
Entertainment -
Puppies will get bored in the crates and pens. Playing music or leaving the television on while you are away may help keep them entertained. Also toys that can be easily washed are helpful.
What do I do if the puppy barks or whines? -
Do NOT say anything to the puppy! Remember that puppies don’t understand what you are saying. They understand the tone of your voice and all attention is taken as positive reinforcement for the activity they are currently doing (barking).
If the puppy is crying and you say “Quiet Down!” or “Oh it’s OK honey”, they have a different tone but the puppy will just understand you are giving it attention. If the puppy cries and you speak to it, in any manner, it will just give the puppy more motivation to cry longer and harder! Do not get yourself into a situation where the puppy is keeping you up all night long and has trained you!
You don’t have to be quiet, as a family, when the puppy is sleeping however. He will quickly be able to determine if you are speaking to him or to another human. Dogs key into the tone of your voice and your body language, not what you say. Your tone and cadence is going to be different when speaking to him than to another human.
Should I feed my dog in the crate for regular feeding times? -
Yes, we highly recommend crate feeding. It gives a controlled and safe place to eat that has no distractions. This may be difficult to do when your puppy is young however. It may be more distracted by being in a crate and not paying any attention to its meal. This includes stepping on the bowl and flinging the food all over as it protests about its situation. Once the puppy has been crate trained, then I would suggest feeding in the crate.
Crate feeding can be very important if there are two dogs in the home. One dog will always be more dominant and it will give the more submissive dog more peace of mind that his meal is HIS.
House Training
To begin house training, I would pick your new young puppy up and take it to the area you have chosen for it as its bathroom. Always use the same commands you will use later like “Potty” or “Outside” always using the same door if going outside.
Later, as the puppy is able to hold it, say the command and head towards the door encouraging the puppy to follow. If you find the puppy going to the door without prompting, at any time, TAKE IT OUT! If it begins asking more often than needed, it is training you. It is asking for something that it really doesn’t need. Be cautious! This can lead to him dominating your schedule. Once house trained, they should ask to go out by going to the door and patiently waiting, or in another way if you train them to do so.
Some families have trained their puppy to use a bell to ask to go outside. This is a great idea! Just make sure your puppy is not training you in the end and asking to go out for no reason.
The use of puppy pads -
Some families choose to start your small puppy on a puppy pee pad or even use them in their crate or exercise pen. Starting your puppy in the house on pads, and then transitioning to the outside will usually not cause future house training issues.
I can tell you from experience that the puppy pads they sell in the pet area are normally small and overpriced. I go to the adult personal protection area in the health and beauty aids department. If I need pads, I purchase the Assurance XL disposable bed pads in packs of 20 and that is a very good value.
Plastic puppy pad holders do not work very well. They have clips that can easily break and are not worth the money or time. I usually place the pad directly on the floor but don’t be surprised if they move them or rip them up when not supervised. Not a good idea.
If you are using pee pads inside and having trouble with outside visits, take a pad out with you and put it in the area you want the puppy to go to in order to eliminate. The pads can blow away so either holding them down with rocks large enough not to be carried off or tent stakes work well. Once you know that your puppy is using the outside area, and the pad is no longer needed, simply remove it.
Dogs sense of smell is much better than ours. If something gets on the flooring, chances are no matter what you do, they will smell it. Just clean it well by your standards and it should cause no future concerns unless there are other factors to deal with such as previous pet urine.
How will I know when my puppy has to go potty? -
Getting to know your puppy's body language is important. Puppies often stop playing and look like they are searching for something. That is an indication he has to potty. Keep your eyes on your puppy at all times (when out of the crate) and learn when they need to go. Don’t wait until they go! Too many accidents in the house leads down a difficult road!
When do puppies usually have to go potty? -
Puppies have to potty immediately after waking up, normally within 10 minutes after eating and during hard play. Keeping this in mind will give you a great start in helping determine when you need to take your puppy out to its potty area. Their bladders are very small and I would not expect an 8-10 week old puppy to hold it much past an hour. As they grow they will hold it for longer as long as a solid house training foundation is in place.
Puppies have very small bladders, so they can only hold so much urine.
Normally they will need to potty about once an hour.
Free feeding and drinking -
If you allow your puppy to eat and drink whenever it wants (which is called free feeding and watering) it will lead to a puppy that will eliminate all day long with no real schedule. Keep your puppy on a regular feeding time. This will greatly help to quickly train your new canine addition.
Be very careful of your puppies' diet during early house training. For the first few weeks of house training it is a good idea to avoid foods or snacks that can be upsetting to his digestive tract. This includes some human food. Also, be sure to check our “Poison Concerns and Emergencies” to be sure you know all of the foods that SHOULD NEVER be given to a canine.
What about probiotics? -
Young puppies' guts are very sensitive, and are susceptible to various issues. We hope that you decide to stay on the TLC Puppy Food as it already has active prebiotics and probiotics. This is important because during stressful times, such as a home change, they help fight off stomach upset and single celled parasites. Every time your puppy is given oral medication it strips the gut of these beneficial bacteria causing more tummy issues.
Entertainment while you are away -
Puppies can get bored in crates and pens though and playing music or leaving the television on while you are away may help. Also toys that can be easily washed are helpful. Puppies will do their very best to keep the area that they sleep in clean, if it is a small area, but going more than four hours without eliminating is nearly impossible and I would not expect a puppy to do this until they are at least 12 weeks old. Some puppies can do this much sooner and others later, but never get angry with your puppy if you find a dirty crate.
Make it ia positive experience -
When you greet your puppy at any time make sure it is a positive experience for him. If he is in his crate let him out, greet him and happily even if he has soiled his crate! Remember that if you become annoyed or upset with your puppy for soiling his crate, he will not understand. The only thing the puppy will learn is that every time you get him out of the crate you are angry and it proves to be a negative experience for him. I have seen this lead directly to submissive urination. This goes for scolding your puppy after you find a soiled floor! He will not remember going potty there or know why you are upset. Keeping your eyes on a puppy in training at all times. Catching him before (or during) the act can and rush him to the correct spot to eliminate. If he finishes outside, give him plenty of praise. Praise is the positive reinforcement you need to use to get the best results. Cookies don’t hurt!
You are your dog's pillar of confidence and support as a young puppy.
Supervise in the House :
1. By knowing where your dog is at all times, and what he is doing, you can avoid mistakes. When a pup stops playing and starts to look around for a "good spot", he needs to go out. By observing your dog you will quickly learn to tell the difference between the pup's exploring his new universe and his searching for a "good location".
2. If the pup starts to make a mistake quickly take the dog to his toilet area and say his work for elimination. Do not yell at the dog. Do not chase the dog. At this point it is up to you to be observant. Any mistakes that are made are due to you not paying attention and picking up on ques.
3. If you can not supervise the dog for a period of time, put the dog in a confinement area or crate (prepared with papers, puppy pad or old towel) or confine him to the room where you are.
4. When you are relaxing (watching TV, reading or on the computer), have the dog with you. Give the pup some of his toys to play with. Have the dog on his leash or confine him to the room where you are, so that he doesn't wander off and have an accident. Teach him that it can be enjoyable just being with you.
When you can't be with your dog:
1. Provide a small area confinement (fenced off area or a crate).
2. Do not leave food and water with the dog unless you will be gone more than 8 hours and do not fill him with cookies or snacks right before you leave. You should schedule the pup's breakfast to be at least 2 hours before your planned departure time if possible. That way the pup can eat, digest his food and relieve himself prior to your departure.
3. Ideally, if you are going to be gone for more than eight hours, someone should give the dog a drink and an opportunity to relieve himself or leave food and water with him but be prepared to clean a crate upon your return.
Taking the dog out to potty:
1. Carry your puppy if he is small or allow it to follow you outside or use a leash to take it to the designated toilet area. Stand quietly, so that the dog can find the right spot. Do not distract the dog. Do not praise the dog during his search. If after about 5 minutes your dog hasn't gone to the bathroom, return him to the house (keeping a close eye on him) for about 1/2 hour, then try again.
2. As the dog starts to relieve himself; calmly praise him. Use a chosen word or phrase (good potty or wonderful potty). This phrase will only be used for praise in going potty.
3. When the dog has finished relieving himself, praise him more enthusiastically. Let him know that you are very proud of him.
4. Remember your dog's routine. Some dogs will "potty" two or three times per outing in the morning, but only twice per outing in the evening. Urination is often followed by defecation, while other dogs will do the reverse.
5. If the weather is foul, do not let your dog know that you don't want to be going outside with him. By teaching your dog that even in bad weather going outside is "the thing to do", to please you, then he will be more willing to convey his needs to you. If you show that bad weather is not something you want to be out in, you will teach that to your dog.
6. While you are learning your dog's "time table", take him out immediately after he wakes up, after he has eaten and during all play sessions.
Catching the dog "in the act" :
1. Without yelling, firmly say "No". If you still don't have the dog's attention, clap your hands.
2. Pick him up and take him outside (even if in the act) to the designated potty area. If the dog relieves himself outside, praise him. Proceed with the potty routine.
3. Clean the mess with a deodorizing or odor killing cleanser if he has an accident in the house. If the dog smells his own scent as having been used as a bathroom area and it is strong enough, the dog will continue to use the area. If the cleanser is not able to eliminate enough of the scent so that the dog can not detect it, you can help mask the scent over with vanilla extract. Just one or two drops will help in assisting to mask the residual odor.
If you find a mess after the fact :
1. Do not punish the dog.
2. Accept the fact that you were not paying attention to the dog.
3. Do not show the dog that you are upset if you find a mess. It has already happened and puppies, with very short attention spans, will not understand scolding after the fact.
4. If you are having trouble getting the puppy to go in the right potty spot, blot up some urine or pick up some stool with a piece of paper and take the evidence to the latrine area. Temporarily leave the paper or stool there as this will help the puppy to understand this is the correct place to eliminate.
5. Clean up the remaining mess in the house as outlined above.
I hope this information helps you house and crate train your puppy as quickly as possible.